Bharatanatyam - Music,
Costume and Make up
The chief musical instruments in Bharata Natyam are the mridangam and a pair
of cymbals. Sometimes veena,
violin ,ghatamand flute are also used. The vidwan
(expert) sets the refrain, which is repeated by the chorus. The cymbals provide the
timing, while the mridangam supplies fractional measures of the broad beats. The
dancer follows the mridangam and cymbals. A tambura is often incorporated in the
orchestra to provide the swara or scale for the refrain.
The costumes of the dancer are
gorgeous. The costumes consists of a dothi
for both male and female dancers. It is usually of richly embroidered
brocade or shimmering silk or satin. It fits snugly above the ankles and is
pleated along the legs, which it encases. Over the dhoti, in the middle, is a
pleated or frilled cloth hanging from the waist to perhaps the knees. The upper
part of the male dancers body remains bare save for a necklace. Women wear a
tight fitting choli or bodice of the same colour and material as the dhoti.
Armlets, wristlets or bangles, earrings and necklaces serve to enhance the
dancers appearance. Women wear a veni or semi circle of real or artificial
flowers round the bun or plait of the hair. In the centre of the forehead a tika
or dot is impressed.
The most typical items of jewellery are the thalaisaman (head piece), with
the rakodi, worn just above the flowers in the hair, and the Chandrasuryan (moon and sun) on either side, as the head symbolises the
firmament. The ear ornaments consist of three pieces, the maatal (chain), jhimki
(hanging earring) and the thodu which fits on to the lobe. For the neck
there is the adigai which consists of a choker and pendant, and a longer chain
with a broad padakkam or pendant designed in red, green, and pearly stones with
peacock or floral designs set in a half-moon like frame. An undulating bangle,
vanki; for the upper arm, gold bangles for the wrist, an odyanam or broad
ornament belt, and occasionally a hair ornament called sarpam or snake to
decorate the long plait, completes the ensemble. Most Bharata Natyam dancers
from all over the country order their jewellery from centres at
Mylapore and at Nagercoil which has the largest number of skilled goldsmiths.
